Week One Seattle WA to Nanaimo BC

Here we are having completed our first of our eleven-week journey!  After all the work getting ready to depart (it took a couple of months), it feels pretty good to finally be underway! A big thank you to Carl and Judy Boruck for delivering us to the boat Tuesday evening after our daughter Andrea and two grandchildren caught an airplane to Irvine, California, where they will now be living. After having six weeks with the family, our house would feel very big and quiet, so we’re very grateful for this adventure while they begin a new adventure in California.  Renee, our other daughter, lives with our three grandsons in California, so at least for the time being, that’s where all the family is.

We departed Elliott Bay marina at around 9:30 am on Wednesday June 24^th under sunny blue skies with intent of spending the night in Port Townsend. On arriving around 2:30, we decided we just wanted to carry on so continued on across the Straights of Juan de Fuca to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. The crossing was a little choppy making it a bit uncomfortable for our as yet undeveloped sea legs (and paws as our cat, Winslow, is with us.) We saw some Dall porpoise on the journey up, but no whales which is one of the major tourist attractions in going to San Juan Island (unless one heads to the wineries or Lavender farms for which they are also known.)

Friday Harbor was a great place to kick off the trip anchored out away from the noise of the marina, down- town and the ferries:  very relaxing. Just before anchoring, dinner was ready.  Pat fixed a great dinner:  salmon with a nice sauce, steamed broccoli, and a mixed green salad.  We had a spicy, crisp bottle of Pinot Gris which topped of the meal nicely.  Thanks, Eric, for helping expand our wine adjectives.

The tourist season has not got into full swing yet in Friday Harbor so we weren’t inundated with people. We also checked out some of the stores along the way, purchasing lavender from the Pelindaba Lavender Farm.  Did you know lavender can be used as a cleaner?  Me neither.  So now, the exercise room and head (that’s the bathroom in boat talk) smell, well, like lavender.

We then walked out toward the South end of the Island, enjoying the views of the harbor even though it was quite hot.  We’re determined to keep our exercise routine up, getting in our steps (Garmin and FitBit people know what I mean) or hopping onto our newly-purchased compact exercise bike which fits very nicely in our guest berth.

On our journey across the Straights before entering Friday Harbor, the next boat project had raised its ugly head.  The battery monitor, which had been giving us unpredictable readings even the day we were leaving Elliott Bay, was once again indicating the batteries weren’t charging.  After way to much research, it turned out the monitor needed to be reprogrammed. An unusual no cost (except time and frustration) resolution.

We stayed two nights (Wednesday and Thursday) anchoring just off Friday Harbor.  We had a reservation for Friday and Saturday night at the Port of Sidney on Vancouver Island:  Probably one of our favorite places to stay on Vancouver Island. 

When entering Canada, one of the first things we have to do is clear customs and immigration.  We have NEXUS cards (took us six months to get it after application in early 2014) which makes clearing customs for international travel via air and water a much faster process.  Essentially, it’s a security clearance that says you can be trusted without giving up your first borne child or cat with the proper documentation.

Unlike queuing at the customs dock, waiting until the person is ready to help you, enduring their insulting questions (we’ve usually found them to be pretty cranky), and perhaps an hour later getting entry into said county, I simply called an 800-number for check in.  I answered about ten questions including citizenship, (my accent always throws them), info about the boat, our ETA in Sidney, pets on board (yes, we also had to clear Winslow so I was glad the $400 we’d paid to do so wasn’t wasted) and then received an entry number. If we arrived prior to our ETA, we were instructed to wait on the boat until our official entry time of 1:30.  I suppose that’s in case they decided to send an immigration agent to check us or Winslow out.

Dinner underway to Friday Harbor

All the crew starting to get relaxed

Tuamotu at anchor

Friday Harbor

Friday Harbor

Crew on land R&R

On the way to Sidney, our second technical issue developed. The boat’s fresh water pump, which delivers water for us to use, was very noisy.  I’d cleaned the strainer while at Elliott Bay and thought that had taken care of it.  We walked a 2 ½ miles (one way) in high 80 to low-90 temps to Waypoint Marine to find either a rebuild kit if available, or buy a new water pump.  Of course no kit was timely available (a week to get it in), so we have a new water pump.  While there was an incurred cost for this boat repair, the other pump was twelve years old, and we saved the cost of the install.

The Port of Sidney Marina is a bit pricey but its service is first rate!  They have people to take your lines when you’re coming in, and someone at the front desk to answer your questions, nice showers (although it’s three loonies for seven minutes), and hanging flower baskets along the way on all docks.  We did discover another marina near Waypoint Marine called Van Isle Marina which is in a beautiful location.  It’s about the same price as Port of Sidney, and would be a great place for kayaking and just hanging out if you’re not as interested in going to town. 

After two nights in Sidney and comfortable that our repairs were now behind us on Sunday, the 28^th, we set a course for Ladysmith, where I’d set up an appointment with a person to tune our new single-sideband (SSB) radio.  It and our SPOT GPS will be our means of communicating on the West side of Vancouver Island.  While it was disappointing not to stop at Stuart, Salt Spring Island, Thetis or some of our other past favorite haunts, we agreed having the SSB working took priority. 

Baker from down town Sidney

Sidney Marina

We hadn’t made it half way to Ladysmith when the engine charging system (alternator?) went on the fritz leaving us with only solar panels to charge the batteries, which were consistently putting out about 11 amps and covering our usage.  We plugged into shore power at the dock and I dove into the next fix-it project.  After the usual trouble shooting trilogy, crawling into very tight spaces on the boat and both learning and developing new words (and using a few dicey old favorites), I tracked our problem to the regulator.  It, as the name implies, regulates the amount of amperage to the batteries.  This was a zero- cost repair in terms of dollars since we had a spare on board.

Pat had the opportunity to go up into Ladysmith which is a very cool small coastal town whilst I worked with Martin Dunsmuir, the King of SSB as far as I’m concerned. He updated our SSB software and showed me how to use it for getting weather forecasts, and sending and receiving e-mail.  As we move further up the island and certainly to the West side, this technology, which is old but reliable and the system-of-last-resort used in emergencies, is what we’ll rely on.  Martin is 78 year old owner, smart as a whip, and used to teach SSB to engineering students at a college on the Island.  He’s the owner of White Squall Consultants and was a great resource for us.  He had the installation tuned up in an hour complemented me on the installation and gave me some basic instructions on how to get the best out of the system.

Pat returned from Ladysmith after a successful visit to the Old Town Bakery with huge bran muffins, cranberry-orange scones and some oatmeal trail mix cookies.  That’s why we have to keep walking and getting our exercise.  Some of these small towns have some great food and treats.  She also bought some kitty treats and is growing some greens for Winslow’s digestion.

Maritime Marina 10 minutes from town Bakery!

We decided to continue heading north toward Nanaimo. Nanaimo is the second largest city on Vancouver Island It’s a big sailing center with many marinas and chandleries.  For boaters, it’s often a jump off point to cross the Straights of Georgia back to mainland Canada.  Like Victoria or Vancouver, no matter what you want or need, they either have it or can get it. Most businesses have regular next day delivery shuttles from Vancouver or Victoria. As we move north I am expecting, it will be more and more a challenge to get parts. We’re greatly hoping our “shake out” of repairs and need for parts is behind us!

 In our nineteen years of sailing, Ladysmith was the farthest north we’ve been on our boat. Our first narrow passage, Dodd Narrows lay ahead.  We timed the transit for 30 minutes before slack tide when the water was moving through at about two knots. At times it can reach speeds of over ten knots.  Adding that number to the boat’s speed (usually five or six knots), and that’s pretty fast to be moving on a sailboat! There are lots of whirlpools and eddies generated by the movement of the current through the passage.  That makes it dangerous for a small boat to pass at times other than a slack tide (water is neither coming in nor going out). Tugs wait till close to slack tide so that should tell us something. Think of putting your thumb over the end of a water hose: that’s what is happening at these narrow passes. Large bodies of water moving through a small gap.  One must always treat the ocean with respect or suffer the consequences.  Luckily, our passage was without consequence; even Winslow watched what was happening.

Entering Dodd Narrows

After passing through the gap

About an hour later, we found anchorage at Newcastle State Park across from downtown Nanaimo.  What a view!  The next day, I ventured to a marine store to buy more LED lights (they save lots of amps!) and Pat did some exploring on her own. After some time in town exploring the Old City Quarter, the Art District Commercial Street and the Pier, we took the dinghy over to Newcastle Island for a walk to get in our daily steps.  We tend to walk everywhere, so getting 15,000 – 25,000 steps on town days (around 8 – 10 miles) is pretty common.

There’s a great loop around the perimeter giving views of the city on the West side and the Georgia Straights and mainland to the East. It said its 7.5 km (about five miles) around.  Given we walked an hour and one-half, however, we don’t believe the signage and believe it’s more like 12 km.  We were fortunate enough to see some of the islands deer residents. 

About 8:30, we headed over to the Dinghy Dock Pub where there was some live music, a nice view, good dark beer (I am an English lad after all) and a great atmosphere.  I had fish and chips (thanks mom and dad), and Pat had crab cakes and a salad.  Tonight, I’m feeling like we’re on vacation and have trouble believing we’re so lucky to have this life. 

Today was also the celebration of my one-year anniversary of being retired from NC Machinery.  We congratulate our friends Carl Erling and Chuck Bergstrom who also retired this past year, and Susan Mann, who’s “rewiring” her work life to become a consultant. 

Pat has a big shout out to Auryel and Eugenia for subbing for her at Yogabliss, and to all her Soulstice Yoga students and friends for understanding the importance of this trip.  Liz, Peggy, Marchelle, thanks for keeping the home front safe.  You’re help gives us both much comfort that our land-lock lives are in good hands.

Today, Wednesday, July 1, is Canada Day.  We had planned two nights in Nanaimo but we decided to spend an additional night here and check out the festivities. The July 4^th like fireworks displays have been in permanently cancelled in Nanaimo for reasons unknown to us (fire?), but it’s a one-day holiday and the Canadians, both gracious and fun love a good celebration almost as much as Seattleites.

Standby for our next update in about a week.  Family and friends, we miss you and are grateful to Skype and technology to keep in touch.

Ian, Pat and Winslow, standing by…

Nanaimo at night

Newcastle State park anchorage

The wind typically drops here at night - hot

Nanaimo main street, museum, shops restaraunts

Oldest building in Nanaimo The Bastion

Looking towards Newcastle Park

Walk in Old Town

Edge of Old Town

Old Town

Past Coal mining history

The floating pub a popular hang out

Kakau Bay

Nanaimo from our Newcastle Park walk

Pat on the original stone wheels from the paper mill