1. Hornby Island

2/3 Comox/Courtney

4. Galley Bay

5. Grace Harbor

6. Melanie Cove

7. Walsh Bay

8. Teakerne Arm

9. Refuge Cove

10. Gorge

11. Campbell River

Nanaimo to Desolation Sound & Campbell River

Since leaving Nanaimo on July 2^nd we have made many stops,  Hornby Island, Comox, Savary Island, Copeland Islands, Galley Bay, Grace Harbor, Penrose Bay, Okeover Landing, Tenedos Bay, Melanie Cove, Walsh Bay, Teakerne Arm, Refuge Cove, The Gorge and finally arriving on July 11^th for three nights in Campbell River.  Some locations were just a “look see”; others turned into anchorages. 

Departing Nanaimo and heading to Tribune Bay on Hornby Island, where a local boater who made the recommendation assured us we’d see one of the most beautiful, unpopulated beaches in British Columbia.  The morning we set out, we were met with some of what the Georgia Straight is known for:  Wind, and lots of it!  It was blowing at 27 knots (a knot is 1.125 mph) of wind right on the nose (bow) with four foot waves close together.  Needless to say, it was exciting and a little too much for our cat, Winslow, who promptly got seasick.

We motor-sailed until the wind moderated and then sailed to within a couple of miles of Tribune Bay. It felt GREAT and was our first good sail since leaving Seattle.  It was about 7:30 that evening by the time we anchored in 21 knots of wind. We were too tired to care about the beach by that time and just wanted to eat and sit.  The next morning, having recovered and excited to explore, we took a dinghy ride to the beach to check things out. What a sight:  A long sandy, white beach and water the color of that in the BVIs of the Caribbean!  Amazing!  We discovered the waters and shore filled with sand dollars.  Did you know a black sand dollar is alive and not to be touched, whereas a white sand dollar can be touched?  We were told the white ones could be “harvested”, so Pat gathered a collection of different sizes and patterns.   

This is a very popular destination in the summer most people arriving by ferry and Denman Island. The local town of Hornby has a great Co-Op with everything imaginable, several tiny stores and restaurants all run by those from one of my favorite periods of time, the 60’s.  Recently, Canadians had identified their top ten beaches and Hornby breathed a sigh of relief that they were not on it. They really enjoy the privacy of being a little known beach destination. It’s a gem of a place and we never would have stopped at what up to this point one of our favorite stops and anchorages.  We would have missed it completely if a local boater hadn’t stuck up a conversation with us.  We’ve found Canadians possess a great sense of pride about their homeland, are helpful, kind and love a good laugh.

Pat & Ian enjoying the warm weather and cool sand

Pat on San Dollar hunt

Early morning walk,no people

Thousands of Sand Dollars

White Sand Dollar the kind you can "Harvest"

Around noon people started to show up

The small town had plenty of supplies. Very 60's and Hippy.

School project

Funky stores and cafe'

Small town feel

Pat test driving a sit down segway.
Perfect for Mum

Getting lessons and sales pitch

Sailing out of Tribune Bay, Hornby to Comox

From Hornby, we headed to Comox, a bedroom community for Courtney which is larger but we thought lacking in anything noteworthy.  Comox is a town of 6,600 people and is home to the Northern BC Coast Guard radio station and supports the Canadian Air Force.  Our first night in Comox was on the hook and the 4^th of July turned out to be Courtney’s 100^th anniversary with live music and fireworks.  Of course, we enjoyed it and felt right at home!

Sailing into the North bound channel, Baynes Sound to Comox, 18 knots of wind
Boyle Point lighthouse Denman Island

Pat adjusting sails

Tidal flats between Comox & Courtney

Everyone around here has to keep up the exercise program all about the steps

Comox Glacier. The locals say it has receded more in the last couple of years than all the previous. Most locations are on water rationing.












On Sunday, July 5, we left Comox for Desolation Sound under cloud cover with what was thought was fog.  After it being hot, we welcomed the cover, but soon realized the air quality wasn’t good and was filled with smoke.  We heard Port Hardy, where we are ultimately headed had a pretty big fire, and later learned from Pat’s friend, Marchelle, that there were 187 fires both on Vancouver Island and the mainland BC.  Kasha, another friend of Pat’s had mentioned Savary Island as a place with beautiful beaches.  We did some research and agreed to head in that direction to overnight. When we arrived, we discovered the anchorage was pretty open and didn’t offer much shelter from the strong NW winds making the bay a very exposed anchorage.  The low clouds of smoke also made for very non-beach like conditions.

We wanted to see the Copeland Islands which a boater in Comox had said were not to be missed.  We passed through Thulin Passage which is only 450’ wide and has some riptides and current to keep one’s attention.  The Copeland  Islands used to be called the Ragged Islands because they’re very rugged, dramatic and difficult to navigate, which we can confirm. We couldn’t find an anchorage where we wouldn’t get bounced about by the wind so continued on, deciding that we were going to spend the night in Galley Bay on the Gifford Peninsula:  Our first entry to Desolation Sound proper.

We anchored in a section of Galley Bay that had only two other boats.  It was quiet water surrounded by trees and what was probably a beautiful outlook.  By the time of our anchorage (again around 7:00 p.m.), the smoke had become much worse and visibility was down to around ½ mile.  The next morning, visibility was even worse and there was light ash on the boat. We were plagued by smoke and lower visibility for the next few days but it didn’t take away from the spectacular coast line.

The boats in the background are 1/2 mile distance. Visibility and air conditions were bad and there was light ash on the boat

One of three boats in this bay

On Monday, July 6, we were just trying to find a place with less smoke.  Cell coverage was spotty, but Pat was able to get an email off to Marchelle who told us there was a big fire in Pemberton that was zero-percent contained.  By the direction of the winds, we realized it was probably what was contributing to all the smoke where we were at.  We decided to head to Grace Harbor, a spectacular cove with lots of weather protection with a short walk to beautiful, freshwater lake.  There were jellyfish all around us and the water was calm and clear.  We hadn’t done much walking since we started our trip on June 24^th and decided it was time for some exercise.  The next morning we used our mini exercise bike which we’re storing in our aft cabin.  Later, we did the half-mile walk – not a hike – to the lake.  It felt great to stretch our legs and just move a bit.   

When we got back, Pat started making a great quinoa salad for dinner while I got our new Advanced Elements kayaks inflated.  They’re about 13’ long, so getting them inflated on a sailboat deck and then into the water was a bit tricky.  Once the kayaks were in the water, we pulled our dinghy alongside, stepped into the dinghy and then, keeping our balance low, moved to the kayak.  Pat made it look easy, but then she’s about a foot smaller than I am and doesn’t have big feet to contend with!  Grace Harbor is really well protected and we spent about an hour initiating our kayaks.  It was lots of fun and we’re looking forward to getting our paddles in the water again soon.

Anchored in Grace Harbor

On the short walk came across this Caterpillar tractor.
Been there a while

Inflating the Kayaks. They are almost as long as the boat is wide, 13'

It was still smoky but it still was a great bay to kayak in

You can still see the haze in the back ground

A local in Comox had recommended we stop at Penrose Bay and go to Okeover Landing which is home to the Laughing Oyster Restaurant. So, on Wednesday morning (July 8^th), that’s where we headed.  One of the great things about this trip is a loose schedule where we have the flexibility to follow up on local lore and trip advice.  While pretty, we found the restaurant closed for lunch and didn’t find the bay had enough to offer to warrant staying overnight. Not all recommendations work out, although we’ve had pretty good luck so far!

We then headed to Tenedos Bay for a look-see, deciding instead that we’d anchor near Prideaux Haven, or if too busy in either Melanie or Laura Cove.  Tenedos Bay is also called Deep Bay for good reason.  Towards its center it is up to 600’ deep!  We carry 200’ of chain and 200’ of rode (heavy rope) for anchoring, so 600’ is impossible for us.  This sort of deep anchorage is something we’re having to learn to work with.  In the Puget Sound anchorages are generally plentiful in 30’ to 50’.  Melanie Cove was an incredible anchorage:  narrow, protected and a place for great kayaking! The air had cleared somewhat and the temps were pretty comfortable, so a short time after dropping the hook, we jumped (well, ungracefully scrambled) into the kayaks and paddled down the bay, out through Prideaux Haven and down a narrow channel to Laura Cove.  Mountains surrounded us and the views, even through the smoke was pretty amazing.  It would have been great to spend another day, but we decided to move on. 

Melanie Bay had a great mountain back drop and the smoke was starting to clear

Kayaking the narrow channel to Laura Cove

The entrance to Prideaux  & Melanie Bay

Under sail to Walsh Cove

















On Thursday, July 9^th, we were somewhat amazed to discover that we’d already spent two weeks on the boat.  It was interesting how quickly we’d made the transition from living on shore to living on the boat.  Having been sailors for nineteen years probably helped, and we’re pretty comfortable aboard.  So far during the second week, it appeared the regulator and water issues and repairs that plagued us the first week were behind us. 

That morning as we pulled anchor (well, we have a windlass which actually “pulls” or “drops” the anchor for us), we decided to head for Walsh Bay on West Redonda Island.  It was “on the list” of places to visit and was about eighteen miles from Melanie Cove.  The skies had cleared overnight and the wind was headed in the right direction, so we put up the sails and set out!  We were able to sail about 75% of the way and entered a quiet, off mainstream anchorage alleged to have Indian pictographs on one of the rock faces. 

This anchorage gave us a chance to try out our new 600’ line intended for stern tying the stern to shore while the bow anchor is dropped to effectively hold the boat at both stern and bow.  It was our first stern tie of the trip and we did it because of the deep water in the center of the bay where we couldn’t safely anchor. Basic rules are drop your bow anchor in deep water such that the chain slopes towards shore of your chosen spot.  Then, run a line out to a tree or rock onshore and back to the boat to hold the boat in a straight line with its bow anchor. When you leave you simply untie one side of the stern line, roll that line back onto the rope reel and then pull up your bow anchor. That’s the theory.  In practice, it’s tough and will take us more practice with fewer captains onboard shouting direction, and yes a little frustration.  We finally did it and felt pretty proud of ourselves!

It was hot…. Very, very hot, but fortunately, the smoke had somewhat cleared.  So off I set on the Indian pictograph hunt. Butler Point is where they were supposed to be and they very well may be there but they were not for Ian to find. After reading about them in two of our marine guides and realizing that the authors had not provided any pictures I am now questioning their existence. It didn’t take away from the anchorage and the night we spent at Walsh Cove was pretty spectacular.

Walsh Cove

Stern tie to shore

We carry 600' of 3/8" floating line that is run to the shore and back to the boat.

Indian drawing hunt

Let me know if YOU find them

Departing Walsh Cove












On Friday, July 9^th, we headed for Teakerne Arm is where Captain Vancouver spent several weeks and where he wrote about how grim and gloomy the area was. Because of the deep anchorages, inability to get ashore easily and probably grey skies and rain, he named the area Desolation Sound.  He must not have been able to see the spectacular mountain scenery or clear waters under his boat’s keel.  Perhaps he, too, was used to a different sort of waters. 

I will admit, I felt a bit bleak this morning as the new water pump we’d purchased in Sidney failed after only ten days.  Luckily we had the one that had faithfully served us for ten years still on board, so I cleaned all the valves and the water strainer and reinstalled it.  Rather have something noisy than not have water!

We stern tied close to the Teakerne Park floating dock (another deep bay), and visited the 100’ Cassel Falls and Cassel Lake, a relatively warm, freshwater lake great for swimming.  For the first time in many years, I did some swimming, nix clothes while Pat tried to embarrass me by taking lots of shots which will not be shared.  There’s an upside and downside to having cellphone-ready cameras…

The quiet inlet was changed by two Canadian Navy ships full of cadets, generators, watch change bells a megaphone to shout orders and more activity than we were prepared to put up with when one forced us from our anchorage coming within 50’ of our once quiet port (left) side.  And, they were going to squeeze in the second boat such that it would be right beside us.

Deciding we probably wouldn’t win an argument with the Canadian Navy, we pulled anchor and moved an hour away to an inlet called Refuge Cove.

Arriving at Teakerne Arm & Cassel Falls

The 100' Cassel Falls

I think the navy is negotiating for this spot under the falls

Moving into position right next to us

Waiting under the falls the sail boat didnt move

Refuge Cove it’s considered a central meeting and provisioning stop for boaters offering everything from grocery store, coffee shop, fuel, garbage drop, post office & WiFi.  These are no small amenities when you have been off grid for a week or more. After being run off from Teakerne Arm by the military, we were a late arrival to the anchorage.  Anchoring out, we made a brief visit via dinghy to shore, found many of the amenities largely overstated and shot for an early departure the next morning.  This location could only be categorized as funky.

Entering Refuge Cove

Not a lot here but it is a friendly and funky place

Refuge Cove

Friday morning, July 10^th, we left Refuge Cove planning to stay at The Gorge on Cortes Island for three nights.  We’d been moving most every day the past week which becomes a lot of work.  It was time to slow things down a bit; my crew was suggesting a slower pace. 

Entry to The Gorge is through a narrow passageway with strong current and 400’ rock wall on one side with Indian pictographs (Yeah right) and trees and an almost equally high rock face (nee Indian pictographs) on the other. It’s made more interesting by having to hug the wall to miss the shallower parts on the right. When the water under our keel changed from 70’ to 8’, I got pretty nervous, especially being pushed by a two- to three-knot current. We had great wind enroute and were able to sail between ports and up to our anchorage at the West end of the bay.

Gorge is known as a resort facility with restaurant, pool and lots of daily activities and $7 to drop off garbage. The high point for us was the dramatic entrance.  We found resort prices ($38 was the cheapest entrée) high, and decided to have pizza and a movie ala the computer a better choice.  Thanks, Marchelle and Peggy for the addition to our video collection!

Because the new water pump had failed ten days out, we called Sidney and they arranged for us to pick up a new replacement water pump in Campbell River.  While the one I reinstalled continues to work fine, we don’t trust it and want to make sure we’ve got another one onboard.  Can’t go far if there’s no water!

Sailing into Gorge

Wing & Wing through the narrow channel.
You have to sail.

Hugging the 400' rock wall for better depth on the way out.

After passing through the Gorge entrance/exit
The weather had changed to rain.













Campbell River, the “Salmon Capitol of the World,” supports the Northern part of Vancouver Island. You want it, they have it or if not, can get it. We stayed in Discovery Harbor Marina which was just a few minutes’ walk from Starbucks to Canadian Superstore for groceries a mega Fred Meyer. Pat’s enjoying having shore power, laundry facilities, a nice shower, and a place to walk about and stretch our legs.  It started to rain the previous night in Refuge Cove and is expected to continue raining throw Monday.  It actually feels good to have it cooler and the rain is welcome here.  BC normally gets 230 – 250 cms of rain.  This past winter, they got 15 cms.  They’re experiencing severe drought and there have been water restrictions every place we’ve been.  At least the rain washed the salt water from the boat.

For us it is the start of the next leg towards The Broughtons and North Vancouver Island through Discovery Passage, Seymour Narrows and home of Ripple Rock.  Nice to catch our breath here a couple of days before heading into the next leg!

The currents here in some locations are very aggressive and with a boat speed of 7 knots there has to be planning around the tides.
We depart Wednesday and are looking for a Slack Before Ebb time line to go North through Discovery Passage.